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Vegan Pho

Vegan pho with mock beef in a bowl.
Photo by Detas Studio

Originating from the Nam Dinh Province southeast of Hanoi in the early twentieth century, phở is one of the most famous traditional dishes in Vietnam. In fact, this is often the dish that introduces most people to Vietnamese cuisine. This vegan phở starts with a rich vegetable broth flavored with shallot, ginger, star anise, black cardamom, apple, and pear. Black cardamom is larger than green cardamom, has a smoky flavor, and is mostly used in savory dishes. If you have trouble finding black, you can substitute with green, but your phở will lack that signature smoky, hot flavor. See Cooks' Note below for essential tips on making plant-based phở broth.

This recipe was excerpted from 'Vegan Vietnamese' by Helen Lê. Buy the full book on Amazon.

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What you’ll need

Ingredients

Serves 8 to 10

For the broth

16 cups water
1 medium juicy red or Gala apple, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
1 medium Asian or Bosc pear, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1-inch thick rounds
1 kohlrabi, chayote, or daikon radish, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
1 medium yellow onion, peeled
2 ounces (50 g) rock sugar
2 to 3 Tbsp. salt
2 Asian shallots or 1 medium yellow onion
2 pieces ginger, thinly sliced
3 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
2 black cardamom pods
Salt, to taste
Vegetable or mushroom stock powder, to taste

For the toppings

¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
1 block firm tofu, drained
3½ ounces (100 g) dried bean curd stick or sheet, soaked, or dried mock beef slices, soaked
1 tsp. salt, divided
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided
2 tsp. vegetable or mushroom stock powder, divided
1 tsp. five-spice powder, divided
2 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided
9 ounces (250 g) fresh mushrooms (straw, king oyster, or shiitake), stems trimmed and sliced
1 Tbsp. minced leek (white part only) for serving
16 ounces (454 g) dried flat rice noodles or 2¼ pounds fresh pho noodles
2 ounces (56 g) sawtooth herb, chopped
3½ ounces (100 g) Asian basil
1 pound (454 g) mung bean sprouts, blanched
1 lime, cut into wedges
1 bird's eye chili pepper, sliced
¼ cup sriracha sauce (optional)
¼ cup hoisin sauce (optional)
  1. Make the broth

    Step 1

    Fill a large stockpot with the water, and add the apple, pear, carrot, kohlrabi, onion, rock sugar, and 2 to 3 tablespoons of salt. Bring to a boil, and then reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered until the fruits and vegetables are tender (about 30 minutes).

    Step 2

    Heat the shallots and ginger slices directly over an open flame on the stove until slightly charred on all sides. Toast the star anise, cinnamon sticks, and cardamom pods in a small skillet over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant.

    Step 3

    Peel the shallots, and then rinse with the ginger under warm running water. Scrape off all charred bits and place in large tea bags or wrap securely in cheesecloth with star anise, cinnamon sticks, and black cardamom. Add to stockpot, and then season broth with salt and stock powder.

  2. Make the toppings

    Step 4

     In a small skillet, heat ¼ cup of the oil over medium-low heat. Once hot, add the tofu and cook until golden brown on all sides (10 to 15 minutes). Transfer the tofu to a cooling rack or paper towel–lined plate to drain. Once cool, cut the fried tofu and soaked bean curd into bite-size pieces.

    Step 5

    Combine the fried tofu and bean curd slices in a large bowl and season with ½ teaspoon of the salt, ½ tablespoon of the granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon of the stock powder, ½ teaspoon of the five-spice powder, and 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce.

    Step 6

    In a separate large bowl, combine the mushrooms and season with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, ½ tablespoon granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon stock powder, ½ teaspoon five-spice powder, and 1 tablespoon soy sauce.

    Step 7

    Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. When hot, add half of the minced leek, and cook and stir until fragrant (about 1 minute). Add the tofu–bean curd mixture and cook and stir until seasonings are well absorbed (about 3 minutes). Transfer to a clean bowl.

    Step 8

    Return skillet to medium-low heat and add remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add remaining leek and cook and stir until fragrant (about 1 minute). Add mushroom mixture and cook and stir until soft and seasonings are well absorbed (about 3 minutes). Transfer to a separate clean bowl.

  3. For serving

    Step 9

    Follow the instructions on the package to cook the dried noodles.

    Step 10

    Fill each serving bowl about one-third with noodles, add tofu and mushroom toppings, top with sawtooth herb, and then ladle the hot broth over the top.

    Step 11

    Serve with a platter of fresh herbs, blanched mung bean sprouts, lime wedges, and sliced chili peppers, along with sriracha (if using) and hoisin sauce (if using).

Cooks' Note

The broth is considered to be the soul of pho. However, when it comes to the vegan version, not everyone knows how to combine and prep their vegetables properly. Below are a few tips that will help you create a delicious (and nutritious) broth:

Combine more varieties of fruits and vegetables: This creates a more delicious, richer flavor than you get when using just one type. In addition to apples, pears, carrots, and kohlrabi, you can also add onion, celery, leek tops, parsnips, chayote, daikon, and more. Limit starchier vegetables, like potatoes and sweet potatoes, as they tend to turn a broth cloudy when simmered for long stretches.

Cut all vegetables roughly the same size: This ensures they have similar surface areas to absorb the water. About 1 to 2 inches is generally good.

Use the skins and roots: The ends and skins of onions, carrots, parsnips, and other veggies can be included in your broth.

Grill or pre-bake the veggies: Just toss them on a baking sheet and bake at 400°F (200°C) for 15 minutes before you cook the broth.

Add mushrooms whenever you’re after a savory flavor: They’re rich in umami (amino acids and nucleotides) and will give your broth that “meaty” flavor without any meat. I prefer dried shiitake mushrooms, but feel free to use your favorite or mix different kinds.

Add fruit when you need something sweet: Apples and pears, in particular, add an all-natural sweetness to a broth. You can also use sugarcane or kombu, a type of kelp used often in Japanese cuisine.

Add enough water: A good ratio is 16 cups of water for every 2 to 4½ pounds of vegetables. Always cook them in cold water, so the overly sweet flavors are extracted at the right temperature.

Batch-cook your broth: You can make a large amount of vegan pho broth ahead of time so that it will be ready to warm up whenever you need it. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 2 months.

Vegam Vietnamese-COVER.jpg
Excerpted from Vegan Vietnamese by Helen Lê Hạ Huyề © 2023 by Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Buy the full book from Amazon or Quarto.

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