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Dried fish, anchovy sauce, animal protein, and bones are staple ingredients in Vietnamese cuisine, but Helen Lê’s new cookbook, Vegan Vietnamese, proves that they don’t have to be essential. Lê puts a meat-free spin on recipes from across the country—like bánh xèo, bún bò Huế, and canh riêu—and provides an extensive guide to achieving the kaleidoscopic flavors of Vietnam while relying simply on the fruits (and vegetables) of the earth.
Lê’s foray into cooking Vietnamese food started with nostalgia. As a student in Singapore, she found herself missing the dishes she grew up eating in Da Nang, Vietnam. This craving led her to start her YouTube channel, Helen’s Recipes, in 2011, which has since amassed over 600,000 subscribers. Although her recipes were never strictly vegan back then, her viewers’ increasing demand for plant-based dishes resulted in this in-depth introduction to cooking Vietnamese food sans meat and fish.
“My main goal while researching and creating these recipes,” Lê writes, “was for people to be able to enjoy each dish without realizing it is plant-based because it has the same flavor as the traditional version.” She begins with a thesaurus of vegan ingredients—pantry must-haves include dried bean curd, fried tofu, and char siu seasoning, plus fresh herbs and alliums like pandan leaves, Asian shallots, and mustard greens. With each recipe, Lê guides you through the meat-free world of Vietnamese cooking, where pho doesn’t need chicken or beef, and nấm xào nghệ (stir-fried turmeric tripe) is just as good made with shredded mushrooms.
Who this book is for
This book is for anyone looking for a flavorful introduction to plant-based eating or any cooks who want to expand their artillery of meat-free dishes. And if you’ve been afraid to attempt cooking Vietnamese food at home because it never turns out as good as the offerings at your neighborhood pho spot, this book can help you test and flex those flavor-building muscles without investing in expensive proteins.
What we can’t wait to cook
Chili Jam: You’ll find chili jam in every eatery in Central Vietnam. This sweet and spicy condiment, made mainly with fresh chiles, shallots, and tomatoes, is ideal for topping noodles, rice dishes, or anything that could use a kick. Lê’s recipe is simple and lasts in the fridge for three months. It’s easily adjustable for masochists like me who can’t get enough heat but also for those who prefer not to test their tolerance for the Scoville level.
Vegan Pho: Lê’s vegan pho recipe is a meticulous guide to extracting every ounce of flavor from ingredients like mushrooms, chayote, pears, and apples to create a broth similar in intensity to conventional pho. Be sure to scroll to the end and read her list of tips before attempting this recipe at home.
Vegan Bánh Mì: While a traditional bánh mì is often smeared with pork-baste pâté or piled with grilled meat, Lê’s version guides you through a vegan alternative made with creamy white beans, leeks, cashews, and Japanese eggplant. She also employs char siu seasoning to flavor slices of tofu and seitan that get fried and nestled inside a baguette.
